I’ve seen people mess this up before, and it sucks that the names are so darned similar, so i thought i’d quickly do this and hope it spreads around
BJD-Shop is a RECAST shop. Don’t buy from them. They are thieves with inferior products.
BJDShop is another name for the Company Hujoo, which deals in ABS and a few Resin BJDs. their dolls are inexpensive and durable. You can check them out either at the Junky Spot, or here: http://www.hujoo.kr/index.php
Well anon, I actually do have a lot of tips, because about 2 years ago I was YOU. I was so confused and didn’t know what to start with! There’s SO much information about there but it’s so hard to know where to start, so let’s make this bite sized for you. Before we start I need to say I assume you’re interested in Barbie because she’s the only readily available doll of her scale and is super common in the community, so sorry if that’s not the case. Ok let’s dive in:
Info on some Barbie heads and skin tones to help you pick a base:
Heads and body type info can be found on the amazing and super in-depth site Katti’s Dolls, it’s amazing, it’ll help you familiarise yourself with names and terms that get thrown around a lot in doll circles. Skin tone comparison can be seen here. There’s a lot of photos like this to help and to be honest it was the first I found. Mattel has thrown some curve balls this last year with a new super orange skin tone that matches nothing Those are the colours that are most common, they’ll match basically all the dolls from the last 25 years. This comparison page shows you what MTM match what Fashionistas although the red-haired girl, the blonde and the blue top brunette have had their skin colours changed tones to the horror ornage, check out all the posts by the user they have a lot of comparisons and they update a lot.
Info on hair supplies and technique.
I buy hair from Retro Dolls because I’m UK based but I would advise to even if you’re American because I’ve seen some MAJOR horror stories about Dolly Hair like her bad customer service and unreliability. Retro Dolls is super kind and helpful and ships her stuff out ASAP.
For beginners try and use this method. It’s the one I stared with and helped me get the feeling for it.
I see lots of people use hair pins and cut straws to curl hair but I would advise not too because of the risk of rust staining the hair, I use plastic curlers with rubber snaps that old the hair in place. You can buy those in salon supply stores or on the internet.
Info on face supplies and technique.
I used these No Nap Time guides for materials and method but Oak23’s saved my bacon loads. Do watch YouTube videos so you can see how it’s done but the reason I said it was bad is because a LOT of the tutorial videos on there are basically just an unorganised video of them doing it with not a lot of help or advice.
I really hope this helps! It’s mostly just getting used to it, you should thrift dolls and get ones cheap on eBay to practice with before you start.
If you wanna cone off anon and speak to me thats totally cool, all the people on this site are super helpful and friendly and we trade advice all the time 🙂 I left this reasonably basic (I know it probably won’t feel like that though) because I didn’t want to overwhelm you.
Unfortunately, all most all my stuff is hand sewn (harnesses are exclusively), so I’m not the right person to ask about small seams, or really sewing machines in general.
Perhaps some of my more sewing machine adept follower might lend some insight!
It could be the machine? some are more prone to eating fabric than others. we couldn’t use our old kenmore for anything and most of my childhood costumes were hot glued.
If it’s not the machine, you can try using stabilizer. There’s three main kinds. Cut away, tear away, and solvie. Solvie is best because it’s very thin. You can tear it away and what’s left will dissolve when washed. Tear away is also great and I use it a lot on coats and thicker things. Cut away I use from time to time, but usually only on applique stuff.
You can also use a larger seam allowance and just trim afterwards.
my friends who make doll clothes swear by using a serger. but to me it’s all sorcery and magic.
I only use a serger to finish seams in doll clothes, never to construct the clothes.
I’ve been machine sewing doll clothes for about 20 years, but I completely understand that my experiences are mine and things can vary. That said
When I used to have a sewing machine with variable needle positions, I would use a zig zag presser foot–pretty much the standard foot most people use–and move the needle all the way to the right. This meant the needle was going through the cloth closer to where the presser foot was holding the cloth, so the cloth was less likely to come loose and get stuffed into the machine.
I later thrifted a nicer machine that happened to not have variable needle positions, so I started using a straight stitch presser foot like this
which again has the part of the foot holding the cloth being closer to the needle, and therefore holding the cloth more securely, than a standard zig zag foot.
Using both of these approaches–moving the needle to the right or using a straight stitch foot–can also let you sew seam allowances smaller than 1/4″, if you align the edge of the cloth with the edge right of the foot. (An aside: most of the patterns I’ve developed for my own use have this narrower seam allowance–this is why, when I make a pattern to share, I have to work on it, instead of just scanning what I’ve been using.)
You can also try using a narrow zig zag stitch to sew knits! The resulting stitch can stretch a bit more than a straight stitch, so is not a bad choice for knits.
Also! The quality of the cloth and thread you’re using can have unexpected effects on the way things behave in the machine. I dunno how many projects I’ve started “because it should sew up fast” turn into nightmares because the cloth itself was low quality…
And, technically, you should switch to a ball point needle when sewing knits (with sharp needles for wovens and leather and vinyl needles for…well…leather and vinyl–no, really, if you ever try to sew vinyl, there’s no need to try to alter the machine with tape or powder or anything else. Just use the right needles.) Sharp needles run the risk of cutting the fibers in the knit cloth, which can lead to runs/laddering, while ball point needles push the fibers aside, allowing them to remain intact.
If you’re new to sewing doll clothes, seam allowances can be larger, too! You can play around with scraps if the offending cloth to see if you can find the sweet spot where the seam allowance is fairly small, but not so small the machine wants to eat it. The pattern can be adjusted by tracing it, then using a ruler to mark how much more should be added to the seam allowance and drawing it in, or by adding tape to all the edges, trimmed to the additional amount.
As always, I have no idea what’s already been tried or what sewing knowledge/experience you have, so apologies if I’ve suggested things you’ve already tried or stated the obvious!
I like to handbaste everything before I get the machine out, it takes longer but you don’t have to, worry about pins or fabric slipping. Also it gives you a chance to try on the garment and make sure it actually fits.
Oh, that reminds me! The biggest danger of my machine eating cloth happens near the edges of the cloth, at the beginning and end or the stitch, so I actually intentionally keep a straight pin in the cloth near the beginning and end of the stitches at the edges, perpendicular to the edge of the cloth. I do hand-crank the machine, or run the needle realllly slowlyyyyy to make sure not to hit the pins, but the presence of the pins prevents the cloth from getting jammed into the machine. (I also insert pins in a similar way to help turn corners when topstitching things like collars.)
Also, when you start the stitch, start a bit farther from the edge than you naturally want to, take a few normal stitches, then back stitch to the edge, holding onto the thread tails to provide tension to keep the cloth from being shoved into the machine, then start stitching normally.
These honestly probably help me more than anything I mentioned in my first post, and I’m blushing that I forgot them…
My seam allowance on my machine is 5mm give or take. I always hand crank the beginning and the end especially with non-woven so I have control over the tension on the thread and the needle falls into the same holes.
I don’t use a serger on small pieces because it does eat up my fabric si I generally do a zig zag stitch (one point in the fabric, one point outside) to hold the threads in. If the fabric is particularly light i will use glue to keep from fraying instead or do it by hand.
You can also use glue to make the edge more sturdy and less likely to go under but it tends to make the piece a bit stiff.
One of my friends places a sheet of normal printing paper under the fabric and then tears it off once the stitch is done.
I’ve been wanting to collate a list of quality resources available free online – primarily sewing patterns, but also tutorials and tips. These are generally ones I’ve found to be pertinent, accurate and useful in crafting for my own dolls.
I’ll be updating this list from time to time. It is directly accessible from the “Resources” link at the top of my main Tumblr page. Please feel free to comment if you have something to say or any resources to recommend!
Sites with multiple patterns/ tutorials:-
>> Missy’s Imaginings – PDF patterns including clothing & fur wigs, and sew-along/ pattern-making videos on Youtube. For 70cm male (Resinsoul I think), 65cm male, 58cm female, MiniFee female, Iplehouse JID female, etc.
>> ResinRapture– Patterns including clothing & flat shoes, and tutorials for jeans and a dress. For Iplehouse nYID/SID/EID female, SID male, JID male and female, KID. N.B. her terms of use for her patterns.
>> Antique Lilac – Patterns including clothing, hats, flat shoes, accessories, wigs & crochet, and photo tutorials on using them. For Iplehouse BID, KID, JID and EID male and female, SD female (Elfdoll and Supia), slim MSD (Narae).
>> Raouken – Patterns including embroidered corset, skirt and coat, summer dress and bloomers for MiniFee girl, with photo tutorials. Also, knitted accessories.
>>Neo-Angelregion – Click “A sewing room” graphic on the right. Clothes and shoe patterns with photo guide (not fully translated in English), for various sizes of iMda dolls.
>> Dolls West Designs – Sewing patterns and instructions for trousers, undies and skirt for Iplehouse nYID, SID, EID female. Also, knitting patterns for female SD10, SD13, Elfdoll, Dollstown 7Y, 13Y and 15Y, Iplehouse YID, MSD, Narae, Unoa, MiniFee, Iplehouse JID, Yo-SD, Narsha, Lati Green. (The site notice says that it is closing, so you may want to download anything you wish to keep long-term.)
>> Usako’s sewing studio – She also has human-sized patterns and tutorials, so be sure to download the right ones! Patterns for Volks SD and SD13-sized skirts and drawers, MSD T-shirt, SD13 boy jinbei.
>> Silkspike Dolls – Detailed tutorials for Grecian dress, skirt, and bag that could be used for any size doll. Useful tutorial on lining pants.
>> American Doll Outfitters – Patterns and tutorials for SD-sized tie, SD or MSD-sized beret, and a detailed guide to fabrics.
>> Doll-Candy – Trouser pattern and instructions for MSD, trouser and leggings patterns and instructions for 47cm AkagiDoll boy; bodice with puffed sleeves pattern and instructions for Dollfie Dream II L-bust; slopers for 47cm AkagiDoll boy and 2D Doll ¼ SY girl.
>> Adams-Harris Pattern Company – Patterns are mostly paid, but the free ones include stockings, hat and dress patterns with directions for Narae, Souldoll Kid, Elfdoll, Iplehouse SD girl, Resinsoul SD girl, Ange Ai, LittleFee. Shoe pattern for a pointy-toed 1970′s ladies’ shoe. Also see the general sewing tips on the ‘Just Stuff’ page.
>> Sprouty Doll – Patterns for open-neck shirt, elastic-waisted shorts and leggings for slim MSD, and elastic-waisted shorts for Dollfie Dream or similar. The shorts have an accompanying Youtube tutorial.
>> Undead Threads – Patterns for Volks SD13 boy, SD, MSD and Yo-SD. I haven’t personally tested the patterns, but the sewing directions look helpful in any case.
>> scargeear on Deviantart – Accessory and clothing patterns for various SD-sized dolls such as Soom Super Gem and iDoll, as well as an interesting tutorial for high-heeled boots.
Individual tutorials (mostly on Tumblr):-
>> Small Wonder’s (my own) resources: Shorts with pockets, booties, slip-on shoes, sandals and girl’s yukata patterns with instructions for Volks Yo-SD. Sew-through with link to pattern for Yo-SD ruffled bloomers. >> inhaletheresin’s tutorial on Tumblr for making wigs with faux feathers >> Shiraya’s Wardrobe tutorial on sewing a T-shirt >> yldenfrei’s no-pattern circle dress tutorial for any size >> gracefaerie designs lists mostly paid patterns, but there’s a free panties pattern for 43cm Planetdoll or Dollstown 7-13Y on the page for the “#47 Rats!” pattern. >> DeGaray Dolls has a tutorial for making leather boots for any size done. Search for “Doll Boot Making Tutorial”. >> Little Amelie PDF pattern for Lati Yellow blouse and pants and pattern/ video tutorial for Lati
Yellow romper [NEW 25 Oct]
Via DoA:-
>> trinlayk’spattern for Yo-SD/ LittleFee/ Honey Delf circle dress and pantaloons >> ToyStory’spattern and photo guide for LittleFee overall dress >> Mista Isilme’s pattern and instructions for MiniFee A-line and Withdoll girl jeans >> Jyuviolegrace’s tutorial for any size baseball cap >> T4124′s pattern and instructions for “Arabian” pointy shoes for Chicline male >> DominiqueB’s tips on adjusting trouser patterns for fit around the crotch >> brownie’s tutorial on making Toms-style shoes for any size
Learning to make clothes by making doll clothes is not only a good idea, but it’s a well-established tradition. People who were going to be making their own clothes as adults were often taught as kids by having them make clothes for their dolls.
What kind of doll you use is going to impact what kind of sewing you do. Generally, bigger is better, because a larger doll is going to be more similar to what making larger human clothes are. If you’re making something for a Barbie or a Monster High doll (Monster High dolls have MUCH smaller bodies than Barbies, despite being the same height), your shoulder seams are often less than 1/4″ long, which usually ends up with you sewing it with a different technique than you’d use on a human dress.
However, you also have to keep scale in mind. 18″ American Girl-ish play dolls are usually designed in what’s called play scale, which means their bodies are roughly 1:2 size, but their bodies are actually smaller than that, and their heads are much larger. This can make scaling patterns funky.
The proportions and intended maturity of your doll also is important. 18″ dolls are usually modeled to be 9-12 years old, so while making clothes for them still enforces some concepts about sewing (like gathering, sleeves, fitting and drafting mockups), you don’t get any practice sewing front darts or shaping on a mature chest.
However, you also want to make sure that the doll isn’t too stylized in maturity. I bought my BJD (whose name is Helena) for the purpose of sewing for her. She’s a 50cm doll by Bobobie (the Lotus, halfway down this page), and her body’s pretty heavily stylized. This includes, among other things, that she’s got in-scale K-cup boobs, which presents its own set of challenges for shaping bodices.
If you’re on a tighter budget, the 17″ extra tall Monster
High dolls are really fun to sew for, because they’re extremely
poseable. Their bodies are only slightly larger than your average
Barbie, but their jointed limbs make them a lot more expressive. You
shouldn’t have to spend more than $30 on one. I’ve found that they’re more poseable and expressive, and stay posed, better than my actual BJD.
If posability isn’t an issue, you can usually find those nice-ish porcelain dolls for quite inexpensively at thrift stores, so check around and see if any have bodies that you like. Since you’ll be sewing clothes, it won’t matter if her dress is wrecked, and you can fix a surprising amount of doll hair damage by soaking it overnight in liquid fabric softener and then rinsing, so buy a doll whose body you think you’ll enjoy sewing for.
On the expensive end, there’s elastic-strung resin ball-joined dolls (BJDs), which are popular with the lolita community. These things can get into the $500-$700 really easily, so you’ll want to check out the less expensive brands (start by checking out Bobobie, Resinsoul, and 5Stardoll). Remember to check and make sure they come with eyes, and to budget for getting a wig, a silicone wig cap (these are $2 and WORTH IT), and a faceup, so that you actually have a complete doll and not a weird eyeless bald body. The major advantage of BJD’s is that 60cm ones are roughly 1/3rd scale of a normal human, and 45cm ones are about ¼ scale, and they’re a lot more true to scale than most dolls. If you do flat patterning a lot, you use basic block patterns, and it’s really easy to buy ¼ scale block patterns, which is SO much easier than drafting your own block from scratch.
So yeah, that’s a long way of saying that sewing for a doll is a great way to get practice with patterning, recognizing shapes of patterns and how they transform into garments (which is a HUGE skill to have), and working in small areas. 10/10, do recommend
A quick set of pics to show the different ways you can wear ‘Meido’!
This pattern is also a nice generic lolita basics, structurally. It contains a blouse dickie, dress with puff sleeves, apron and pinafore (which can be combined or layered separately).
I finally bought a reroot tool. Now to wait for it to arrive…
This is like a right of passage in the doll world right?
I bought one and I just kind of stare at it because it’s so intimidating to me for some reason.
My queue of bald heads is too long for intimidation D:
My only concern is having to glue inside the head because I just don’t trust this method…
Sorry I meant to comment something on that. I heard it depends on which glue you use. I have been advised to use polyrethane glue (liquid fusion). I have used it on a MH to hlue some eyes in the head. It has been a year and so far no problem on the glue side (on the other hand my sealant fucked up).
The liquid fusion I have is liquid enough to grab the strands of hair and has a elastic finish that prevents it from cracking.
I have not used it for hair specifically however. So someone would have to confirm that. But it’s a really good glue and sets slowly (1h to grip, 48 hours to cure completely) so no risk of melting.
Thanks for the glue recommendation! I read some tutorials and they said to use Fabri-Tac glue. I still have plenty of time to pick up glue but its good to have options.
Omg yes, I was about to come in wailing about Fabri-Tac and it’s huge benifits (it contains acetone and that helps shrink the rooting holes!) but now I’ll only give my other advice lol…
Don’t have the needle out to far!! Have it short because if there’s too much hair pushed into the head it’s rrreeeaaalllllyyyy hard to glue and I NEVER see tutorials mention that.
Oh that is good advice! All of the tutorials that I’ve seen just ram the needle into the head and move on! I assumed that was too much hair but wasn’t sure.
Yeah I have mine about 10mm from the end of the needle in the tool to the very tip. I’m gonna assume you haven’t done a reroot before but if you have but just used a different method ignore me lmao.
(This is assuming you’re buying the hair and not salvaging from a doll) Some hair separates nicely into sections you can use as plus and others are just like a mess of brushed out hair and it’s really hard to pick sections out, if it’s your first reroot try and use the hair that separates because it makes it a lot easier. You can tell but the photos normally because they look sort of stringy but once you root them and brush it out they look like normal hair.
I have a really bad sense of how much hair is enough and ruin needles all the time using too sections that end up too thick.
Also I’d buy from RetroDolls if I was you, you’re US based right? I know there’s a few stockists in the states but I hear horror stories about DollyHair a lot so I’d avoid her.
Melanie the lady who runs RetroDolls is SUPER nice and her choices of hair is first rate, she’s got loads of funky colours and all the main hair types, she even stocks thermal colour change hair and glow in the dark hair, I’m still looking for an excuse to use them because they look so damn cool.
Sorry if you’ve already done this stuff and I’m being really patronising lol.
I’ve seen a number of people referencing antique cutting guides as “pattern books” and attempting to photocopy enlarge the diagrams to sew for their dolls. But it’s not that simple!
Here’s what you need to do to save yourself a headache and get those patterns in the correct size for your dolls. 🙂
3 new bargain bundles on Etsy: Sew Easy, Guys & Gals, and Steam On!
Sew Easyis a bunch of the easiest/fastest sewing outfits that are also super versatile. Bet you didn’t know there was a genie/harem outfit tucked into the Pajama pack!
Guys (& Gals) are the patterns that have both boy and girl patterns in them, but are usually overlooked by people wanting boy clothes because they have girls on the cover and are in the girl section of the shop.
Steam On!is a steampunk pack, with more emphasis on the ‘steam’ part. These are working-steampunk clothes, with waistcoats, jackets, suspenders and spats. I may have enough patterns later in the year to do a completely different bundle that has more emphasis on things like bustles and garters 😉
So anyway, you can pick them all up in the shop. Value Bundles are 5 patterns for the price of 4 (so 20% off) BUT! since there’s a sale going on in the shop right now, you can get ANOTHER 10% off if you use the coupon code “MagicalGirl”
Struggling [to be] a[n] artist 